The 36,000 BPH Seiko SBGH003
Posted By: petew
The recent influx of Spring Drive watches in the Grand Seiko lineup has raised speculation about Seiko’s dedication to high end mechanical movement production. However, the just released SBGH001 & SBGH003 GS watches with a new 36,000 Beats Per Hour (BPH) 9S85 caliber undeniably demonstrates that Seiko has not abandoned high end mechanical watch production. The 9S85 is a state of the art mechanical movement, and with a stated accuracy of +5/-1 seconds per day, the SBGH003 is quite possibly the most accurate mechanical wristwatch in production.
The Grand Seiko Poem
The +5/-1 seconds per day, accuracy standards documented by Seiko for the SBGH003 are the tightest I have seen published from any manufacturer today. Sure, we all have seen or heard about individual watches using various movements attaining astounding accuracy over long periods of time, but no current manufacturer that I’m aware of will guarantee their mechanical movements to be more accurate than that of the 9S85 in the SBGH003.
Although admired for their potential timekeeping abilities, super hi-beat movements do have weaknesses; most notably, increased servicing requirements and a need for a stable power flow through the gear train. From what I’ve been able to gather through translation efforts in studying the 9S85 movement, Seiko has addressed these issues through improvements in mainspring and escape wheel design.
The mainspring developed for the 9S85 is a refined version of the Spron design that we’ve seen used in Springdrive and 6R based watches. To cope with the increased power demands and minimize isochronism error, Seiko tweaked the Spron alloy and changed the mainspring dimensions to deliver a more consistent band of power throughout the 9S85’s impressive 55 hour running reserve.
Grand Seiko Mainsprings - Photograph by Seiko
Conventional escape wheel (top) and 9S85 escape wheel (bottom) photograph by Seiko
Of particular concern in a hi-beat movement is the lubrication demands imposed on an escapement working so frenetically. Through newly developed micro machining methods, Seiko has claimed improved polishing and hardening of the escape wheel teeth, and as shown above, they’ve incorporated a specialized honeycomb like design in the wheel which apparently improves the long term stability of the lubrication in the escapement. In short, the lubrication better stays where it should to keep the watch running properly.
The watch itself is very much a traditional Grand Seiko design; dauphine hands, oyster bracelet and a traditionally designed case. Many will be pleased to see that the power reserve dial, which seems to have become a popular GS complication of late, is absent.
At approximately 40mm without crown, with a thickness of 12mm, the case could be considered large for a Grand Seiko. Lug width is 20mm. The links on the oyster bracelet are held together with screws.
Seiko Shizuku-ishi Watch Studio
The dial on the SBGH003 was said to be inspired by the views outside the Shizuku-ishi watch studio. Although the dial looks black at first glance, it is actually a deep green color with textured ridges throughout. Like many green dials, it can look a little muddy at times, but in the right light, it pops. Like the dial, the markers too have tiny microscopic ridges engraved on their surfaces. The hands are polished on the sides with an incredibly fine brushing on the main surface.
As with all higher end Seikos, the casework is a wonderful combination of brushed and polished surfaces. Finishing is top notch. The screw in crown is surprisingly large.
The new 9S85 Seikos are a welcome and appropriate addition to the GS lineup. Most know that Seiko has an early history of 36,000 BPH movement design and it’s great to see that not only are they now continuing this tradition, but are also actively working on improving it through cutting edge technology and active research and development efforts.
June 11th, 2009 at 7:03 pm
Incredible.
You wrote a lot about the movement, for obvious reasons. Regarding the design, I agree with your comment that many will appreciate the absence of a power reserve hand. I’m one.
Also want to comment on the beautiful knurling around the circumference of the caseback. Seiko has done this with other Grand Seiko models, and when you see someone wearing one, if they wear the bracelet a bit big, at a certain angle, you can see this detailing. A very nice touch.
It’s interesting there’s a booklet included written in English. Clearly this watch is not manufactured for “Japanese customers only.” Is this a first?
Thanks for presenting this masterpiece, both the text and wonderful pictures.Congratulations! This watch is gonna be so much fun to own!
June 11th, 2009 at 7:13 pm
Hi Bryan,
I’m pretty sure that Seiko has included GS English instructions in the past with some other models. I’d like to think that there are people at Seiko that do realize that even though their watches are only intended for the domestic market, they are in fact being shipped all over the world.
That’s a neat point about the knurling being visible while the owner is wearing the watch. I’m going to have to check that out in a mirror!
Although I’m not much of an accuracy freak, I’ll have to try to keep this one going for a a month or so to see how the long term performance holds up.
Thanks for reading,
petew
June 11th, 2009 at 8:41 pm
Hi Pete
WOW WOW WOW! Excellent writeup and photos. This is the first time I’ve seen real photos of the new hi-beat. The green textured dial is absolutely stunning on this special limited edition(one of your photo really captured the details and depth of the dial beautifully under the light). This dial finish looks almost enamel-like to me (I do wonder what type of dial finish this is). Will you be planning to get the silver dial edition as well Pete? I’ll be very interested to know if the finish on the silver edition is the same textured finish or the more traditional plain finish. Unfortunately the new hi-beat is out of my budget at the moment
It is also very interesting and inspiring to read the continuing improvement and in-house innovation Seiko continues to bring to the horology world. It’s innovation and contribution to the industry is really second to none IMOH. Seiko’s pursuit of precision and perfection can maybe only be matched by true high-end Swiss manufaturers like Patek and the pre-Swatch Breguet.
BTW, reading the Seiko accompanying booklet “tick tack tick tack”, I can almost imagine the beautiful soulful hi-beat of this model.
Thank you for the great post again my friend.
Cheers
Tintin
June 11th, 2009 at 11:14 pm
This is a most impressive watch! The +5/-1 is no longer a simple one-upping of the COSC standard, the increased requirements are significant. I like the return of the beveled lugs, as it is a distinctly Seiko feature and was employed in many vintage Seikos. This hi-beat GS is an evolution of the SBGR001/023 Grand Seiko, it improves upon the older style in just about every way and once again, great touch with the brushed hands!!!
June 12th, 2009 at 3:49 am
Hi Tintin,
I’m glad you appreciated the writeup. I’m pretty sure that there is no texture on the SBGH001 version. I haven’t seen any mention of it in any information I’ve read about these new 9S85’s. As much as I’d like to have that version, I don’t think I’ll be picking on up. One is enough for me!
I agree with you in that very few Swiss manufacturers continue to innovate like Seiko does. When you think of the fact that Seiko’s R&D efforts span both low cost and ultra high end watches, it’s even more impressive.
Thanks for reading,
petew
June 12th, 2009 at 3:52 am
Hi Evan,
Yes, what endeared me to this particluar model (besides the movement and dial) was the traditional design. Many GS’s of late have taken on a slightly more modern profile. The SBGH’s have a nice “old school” look to them with cues that go back to the original Grand Seikos. I like that.
Thanks for the comment!
petew
June 12th, 2009 at 5:39 am
Wow, excellent write-up and very nice watch, I’m a sucker for 36000ph watches and its nice to see the they’re still alive. Any idea of the price and availability ? Was planning on buying a SD GMT next year, might be this one instead!
June 12th, 2009 at 6:40 am
Hi Webvan,
The White Dialed SBGH001 watch has a list price of 550,000 yen. It’s a Master Shop edition which means that distribution of the watch is limited. There is no set number of watches in the production run, but rather, the watch is only available to select Seiko shops.
The SBGH003 is a limited and numbered edition of 200. In addition to the dial differences, there are some visual enhancements to the movement as compared to the 001, and the movement is spec’d to a slightly better accuracy standard. It has a list price of 600,000 yen.
Thanks for reading,
petew
June 12th, 2009 at 3:33 pm
Thanks, ouch, that’s pretty steep, looks like it will be the SD SNR015 GMT after all then
June 16th, 2009 at 6:10 am
Hi Bryan,
Great write-up! Thanks! I can only wish that i could afford one.
June 17th, 2009 at 3:48 pm
Fantastic writeup as usual, some great info and images.
I do not know how long Seiko has been including English manuals with their GS models, but when I purchased my SBGM003 over a year ago in Tokyo it came with an English manual.
June 17th, 2009 at 9:22 pm
Hi AKable,
Bought my first new Grand Seiko in 1999, second in 2001, and third in 2002. All purchased in Japan. None included an English manual. My guess is English manuals began to be offered when Seiko started selling Grand Seiko in East Asian countries like Thailand, Taiwan and Hong Kong. Was that in ‘04 or so?
Can anyone provide more info?
–Bryan
June 18th, 2009 at 11:24 am
Hi Bryan,
I just found out via TZ from a guy who purchased a GS at the Paris France Seiko Boutique that the insructions were Japanese and English. I was curious if the GS’s sold in France had any French literature included but apparently not. The Japanese English guides they are currently using could be standard across the board now.
petew
June 20th, 2009 at 3:51 am
Hi Pete,
Ever since you mentioned this to me, I have been anxiously awaiting your review. It is quite stunning indeed. I really appriciate the classic seiko design, for I feel that charge inticator is kinda tacky. The best charge indicator was done on the Big Boss series, where you press a button and it moves a seconds hand around the dial to show you. It’s a neat feature, too bad they don’t do more like that.
About this beauty, I really like 2 things about it. The case itself has a little bit of cushion, which sets it apart from other versions of GS that I have seen. I think this is a better choice as it will sit better on the wrist as well was give it a less protruding look:)
The other awesome difference, IMO, is the crown. It’s large and has enough crown guards on each side to not look as large as it is. It’s quite stunning. I love my B&M crown, but this is just as good!
I know you will enjoy it and this is quite a special piece which will be in your collection for many years
Wear it well
June 21st, 2009 at 3:14 pm
Hi ptolemy,
Thanks for your comments…especially those on the case and the crown. I’m very pleased that Seiko chose to go with a larger crown on this watch. Being an auto dress watch, it would have been very easy for them to go with a smaller more traditionally sized crown, yet they didn’t. I probably didn’t mention it properly in the review, but the case on the SBGH watches is pretty substantial. The proportions between dial size and case and lug width and overall length are probably very close to say the older and smaller SBGR GS’s, and for me, the proportions work wonderfully. A smaller crown probably would have ruined some of this look.
Best,
petew
June 22nd, 2009 at 6:27 pm
Hi Pete,
Seems like we have a similar eye on the touches of GS. I am glas they went back to classics, for the last severla models they have released have been too crowded.
With that said, I wonder if this crystal is slightly domed or completely flat while just sitting just above faux bezel?
June 24th, 2009 at 6:38 am
Hi ptolemy,
The crystal has an ever so slight almost imperceptible dome to it. It’s so slight, you almost wonder if your mind is playing tricks on you, but it is there.
June 26th, 2009 at 10:05 pm
Hi petew,
What is your wrist size and how does the watch wear? I’m thinking of getting the white dial version. The diameter looks spot on for my wrist (~7) but the thickness does concern me a bit.
Also, is the crown a screw down affair?
June 28th, 2009 at 4:09 am
Hi islander71,
My wrist diameter is just under 7 inches. It’s always hard to tell someone else if a watch is too big or not because everyone’s frame of reference for what looks good is different. To me, this is a big dress watch though, but I’m a traditionalist in that I think dress watches should generally be unobtrusive and subtle…..I have no problem wearing a 35mm dress watch so in that context, this one looks big. That said, it certainly is smaller than a regular Seiko diver.
The crown does screw in.
Good luck in your decision. The white/silver dial is quite nice and has that cool blued seconds hand too.
Thanks for reading,
petew
June 29th, 2009 at 2:22 am
Yeah, I think the blued hand on the white dial is a clean look. Their polishing of the bracelet is quite elegant as well.
I do have an SBGM001 GMT on the way already. My supplier in Hong Kong can’t seem to say for certain if they can get me the Hi Beat so I might have to email Seiya, Higuchi or Chino to see what can be had.
Really the Grand Seikos are undervalued by many people in the West.
July 21st, 2009 at 1:09 pm
Just beautiful, Pete,
A truly first class watch. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and photo’s.
Best,
Alex