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Dirty Sexy Seiko

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Tastes change with age. I’d always thought of gold watches as gaudy. In bad taste. Self-indulgent. Hedonistic. Either that, or I considered them watches for old people. For retirees. But recently it struck me how fun it would be to wear a gold Grand Seiko as an everyday watch. To wear to the office. To wear pumping gas. Solid gold Grand Seikos are sexy.

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Collecting watches is an enjoyable hobby, but usually not a good investment. Yet, with the steadily weakening US dollar caused by fears of a looming economic recession in America, watches with 18 karat gold cases, such as Grand Seikos, become more valuable each year. The chart above shows how gold has appreciated over the past seven years. Last week, gold traded at over $700 US per ounce. Gold is a good hedge against inflation.

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Even the value of a book with a gold Grand Seiko on the cover has risen sharply. The out-of-print book Japanese book called The Seiko Book, released in 1995, retailed for 2,200 Yen (about $20) but now sells for over $85 used.

But economic reasons are not why I think it would be enjoyable to have one of these beautiful watches. Admit it. Part of the fun of wearing big divers watches, or large analog chronographs, or even Casio G-Shocks, is that their large size makes them stand out. They get noticed. Now think of the audacity it would take to wear a gold watch.

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Seiko has been making gold Grand Seikos for a long time. The Grand Quartz above from the mid-1970s is a beautiful example. Unfortunately, I’m not able to document the name of the person who took this photo because the auction I grabbed it from ended before I got a chance. But I wanted to include it with this story since the caseback, with the gold battery hatch, is so beautiful and unique.

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Grand Seiko Caliber 6146
Photo: utiwa1619

Seiko used gold to make Grand Seikos since the 1960s. Even on stainless steel versions, such as the one featured above, a gold medallion with the Seiko GS logo was inscribed on the back of the watches.

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Photo: dskatou

During the 1980s and early 1990s, many versions of gold Grand Seikos with quartz movements were released. For those who prefer metal bracelets to leather watchbands, models such as SBGS006, which retailed for 1,890,000 Yen (about $16,400 US), might appeal. It was powered by a 9587-8010 caliber quartz movement, and the case size was 35mm across, excluding the crown. Imagine how heavy it must be.

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The 45 caliber automatic Grand Seiko Hi-Beat shown above, listed on Yahoo! Japan Auctions by dskatou, features an 18k gold cushion case. According to the auction, the seller hopes to at least get 260,000 Yen for the watch (about $2,500 US). That’s almost affordable, compared to . . .

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The 4520 automatic caliber Grand Seiko VFA (Very Fine Adjust) offered for sale by marantz7. It’s priced at 3,001,000 Yen (about $26,000 US). According to the seller, the watch was released between 1969–1970, and only 173 units were produced. It’s an astronomical observatory model, with a movement that won the Swiss competition for the most accurate watch movement.

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Photos: Sale851 | M9518

So much for dreams. If you’re like me, the reality is if you want a gold watch in the Grand Seiko style, you’ll probably buy a gold-colored one instead of an 18k gold one. Something like the quartz Bently above left, that retails for 10,000 Yen (about $85 US). Or maybe you’ll buy one like the automatic Seiko 5 on the right, that sells for 15,000 Yen (about $130 US). A Japanese sales ad actually recommends the Bently as a good watch for gold Grand Seiko owners to wear when they don’t want to risk wearing the Seiko. The Seiko 5 is a “made in Japan” version I’ve only seen for sale in Japan.

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Although some gold Grand Seiko models can only be mined by the filthy rich, clean used ones sell for under $3,000 US. In Japan I saw a few older men wear Grand Seikos, people like presidents of universities and top executives at corporations, but I don’t remember seeing anyone with a gold one. I can imagine a Japanese politician wearing one, and can imagine myself wearing one too.

Note: The first and last image is of Grand Seiko SBGR002, retail 808,500 Yen (about $7,000 US), photo by try3316. The retail price of this current-production model jumped $1,000, up from 700,000 Yen, as of July 1, 2006. I take back what I said about gold being a good hedge against inflation.

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8 Responses to “Dirty Sexy Seiko”

  1. petew Says:

    I’ve always admired the SBGR002. It’s monotone appearance is both stealthy and flashy at the same time. I bet it’s a pretty heavy watch too!

    The watches you showed were spectacular and I have to say, my favorite of the group just might be that Grand Quartz. What a wonderful classic watch that represents Seiko so well.

    Thanks for the article Bryan

  2. bryanandersen Says:

    My father used to wear gold-tone (not 18k gold) watches before he retired. In the past, I’d of felt self-conscious wearing a gold watch. But I guess I’m “maturing.” Now I think it would be real “in your face” to wear a gold watch around, like it was nothing. How do you suppose coworkers at the office would feel if I started wearing an SBGR002? Do you think anyone would notice? Would people talk?

    By the way, I don’t recall ever seeing anyone on a Japanese watch forum post about actually owning a gold Grand Seiko. Have you ever come across a post like that?

    Regards,

    Bryan

  3. petew Says:

    There were two watches that changed my opinion of wearing gold. First was this 6139:

    and second was this diver!

  4. Sjors Says:

    Hello Brian,

    To be honest, I had never heard of Grand Seiko before the interview with Seiya San. I think Seiya’s interview was a very good advert for Grand Seiko. His story about his dad buying one gives the watch an almost mythical status. Normally I don’t get warm for gold, but the pictures of the Grand Seiko and the Seiko 5-er look very classy.

    Friendly greetings,

    Sjors

  5. bryanandersen Says:

    Hi Sjors,

    You never heard of Grand Seiko until recently? Look here, and . . .

    Be careful! :-)

    Regards,

    Bryan

  6. martback Says:

    It might take a while to recoup your investment based on increased gold prices. After a quick google, it looks like solid gold dress watch cases uses about 20-25 grammes of gold so I assume that you might get 50 grammes in a really chunky case (and a few extra grammes in the buckle).

    If your budget does not stretch to gold, Seiko has done a few goldplated watches. The 39j Seikomatic below has a very heavy 260 micron goldplating (or about a quarter of a millimetre).

    And if you do not like gold, you could always go with diamonds. The watch below is a 6349 Seiko 5 in a style unfortunately out of fashion at this time. If we stick to the TV references, I would say this is a Miami Vice watch.

    / mart

  7. martback Says:

    If I was to embark on the Seiko pure gold route, my choice would be a classic Goldfeather. Decent condition 18K versions of this watch can be purchased for about USD 500. Add a few hundred for the excellent ones. You would feel like a million dollars.


    (Picture Credit Sato3.com)

    / mart

  8. bryanandersen Says:

    Hi martback,

    Gold hit a record high yesterday for a short time yesterday (around $740 per ounce, I believe). It was after “Helicopter Bernanke” cut Feb rates by .50 points. Oil rose on the news too. If oil goes over $100 a barrel in the foreseeable future, gold is gonna become even more valuable. Something to consider . . .

    I must say, that Goldfeather you show is excellent. Unfortunately, I’ve had really bad luck with old Seikos. I bought a 1960s Seiko Weekdater, and three 6138 chronographs. All but one of those had worn out movement parts. I’d buy an old watch like the Goldfeather as a collector’s item, but, personally, I’m quite hesitant to buy a 40 year old watch as a daily wearer.

    Nope, I still want the SBGR002. Of course, all I can afford is the Seiko 5 :-) . . .

    Thanks as always for stopping by and sharing your thoughts. Appreciated!

    Bryan

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