SEIKO Military SNX427 — The Little Watch That Can
Seiko does something big guns like Rolex and Omega can’t. It makes quality automatic watches with an in-house 7S26 caliber movement that sell for around $100 US. Last time I checked, the cheapest Rolex went for over $3,000 new and the cheapest Omega, a quartz model, sold for over $1,000. Although Seiko can combat the Swiss at the $1,000+ level, at $100 there is no battle between Seiko, Rolex, and Omega. The Swiss makers, for a number of reasons, can’t even join the fight.
One of my favorite Seiko models is SNX427 (pictured above). It’s a military-style watch that surprised me at first because the more I wore it the more I liked it. That doesn’t happen as often as it should, no matter how big the price tag on the watch. I paid $85 for mine, shipped from Singapore. It’s hot as a small caliber pistol.
The stock nylon strap the Seiko military is issued on looks great and is comfortable. I don’t see any reason to switch it off until it wears out, but the watch does look good on a NATO, or on a black leather strap.
Like other current Seiko 5 models, the Seiko military has a see-thru glass caseback that gives it a tall profile. I read years ago someone complain on a Japanese watch forum that the caseback is too thick, and the lugs too straight. Although I can see his position, I don’t think I agree; I like the watch just as offered. But I should add I don’t have experience with it when it had a stainless steel caseback and lower profile. The current production model is 7S26-1684. I gather from Jayhawk’s Seiko watch database that the version with a steel caseback was 7S26-3080. To see pictures of that watch, click here.
I’m not sure why Seiko decided to switch from a steel caseback to a see-thru one. It could be that they did so for economic reasons — that they simply decided to make just one caseback for all Seiko 5s instead of retooling for different models. Another possibility was suggested by Alan in his review of the Seiko SUS 4S15 military and its see-thru back. Alan speculated:
There are some features which would not normally (or ever) be found in a real military-issued watch. The crystal is highly reflective flat synthetic, which could be disadvantageous in the military environment….Also, most military watches do not have the date. Finally, there is a display back! A “crystal” covers the back so the movement is visible, which is never a feature of a military watch.
This seemed to be the feature which “stuck out” the most on this watch….I never understood why this watch should have it, but….if these watches were being designed for Japanese youth, who had only known of digital watches, what better way to acquaint them with analog timekeeping and mechanical movements than to show them the very act in progress, to show them the movement? I really wonder if this may have played some role in adding a display back.
Read Alan’s full SUS 4S15 military review by clicking here.
Listed as having a 35mm case, many Seiko fans aren’t gung ho about the size. Not a problem for me, in fact, I’m not sure I’d like it as much if the case were bigger. Maybe size matters, but proportions do too. The 7S26 military hands and numerals make a good bullseye. Time is always clear with just a glance. It has excellent nighttime luminosity; no need for night vision goggles. And it’s so light on the wrist that it’s a pleasure to wear — you don’t require rest and recuperation from arm fatigue after a day’s duty with the Seiko military. Finally, the thick see-thru caseback that elevates it off the wrist adds presence.
It’s ridiculous to compare this watch, or SKX007, to a Rolex or Omega. The luxury brands have refined high-end movements and detailing Seiko 7S26-powered models lack. But those Swiss watches cost anywhere from 10 to 30 times more than the Seikos, and aren’t that much more fun to wear. At least, not for me.
Can you imagine if Omega made an $85 watch, shipped, with the Omega name on it, that was as high quality as Seiko SNX427? You can’t? Neither can I. And that is one of the unique things about Seiko. When it comes to making a good, dependable, quality $85 automatic watch with an in-house movement — Seiko can.
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August 27th, 2007 at 3:00 pm
These are great little watches! I had one and loved it, I just didn’t wear it enough in the face of all the other Seiko competition (6309, Landrek, etc) yelling from the watch box.
Thanks for the post!
August 28th, 2007 at 4:12 pm
Hi Brian. Contratulations to both you and Pete W. on writing about watches
that are somewhat related, and doing such a good job, the both of you.
1. It is interesting that there are some similarities to both watches,
both 35 mm, both have a military style face, both have a see through back, both
have that sandblasted case, that fabric band.
I guess the main difference is the movement, and the price, the 4S15 being some
what more expensive. In addition, the 7S26 is available as we speak, for about
$85, as you say.
2. Speaking of comparing the watches to a Rolex, I think that where the Rolex
has more Prestige-high price, the Seikos have more “Usability”. Many people do
not enjoy using a $10,000 to $20,000 dollar watch as a tool for daily use, or
banging it around underwater. In that sense, these Seikos are much more usable,
in my opinion.
Keep up the good work. You guys have written articles that have added a lot
to the pleasure of owning some Seikos, and these items are available to the “common
man” at a price the “common man” could pay. You guys seem to know a lot about the
background and behind the scenes events that make these articles so enjoyable. One
of these days, if the two of you put your articles together, you would have a
great book!
Thanks, Paul
August 29th, 2007 at 7:22 pm
Hi Paul,
I think the difference between the European brands like Rolex and Omega, and Japanese ones like Seiko, may spring from cultural factors. My impression is that many European brands are elitist and more class conscious than Japanese ones. Rolex and Omega can’t make a $100 automatic watch for the masses because it would take away from their image as prestige brands. Like allowing the “wrong kind of people” to join an exclusive club.
If I’m not too far off with this line of thinking, perhaps the European and Japanese auto industries are another example. Whereas the many of the European car makers focus exclusively on the high-end market, Japanese companies make excellent cars that fit any budget.
Thanks for your comments and support. Appreciated!
Regards,
Bryan
August 30th, 2007 at 7:42 am
That’s not entirely true about the cars. If you go to Germany bmw’s and mercedes are equivalent to a ford in terms of amount seen. Ever seen a mercedes garbage truck? Years ago when tariffs got too high on import cars they started only shipping over high end cars to justify the inflated prices of the tariff. Naturally people began to see them as a superior higher quality cars, which is debatable, as I have personally witnessed engine brackets give out on 3 bmw 7 series and totally drop the engine on the pavement. Granted it was about 12 years ago. It was with this same logic Japanese car makers came out with the Lexus, Infiniti, etc. Us dumb Americans we think anything with a high price must be better. Wild Turkey did the same trick. It used to be the cheapest rotgut on the market. On the verge of bankruptcy they jacked up the price and everyone thought it was a premium whiskey. No other changes except a higher price.
August 30th, 2007 at 11:47 am
Hi ga13e,
Those are excellent points. I’ve never been to Europe, so my impressions from what I’ve seen in the US and in Japan, as you point out, are not necessarily how things are in fact on the Continent. The whiskey comments are also good. I’ve never heard that before.
Thanks for sharing your information. Very interesting.
Regards,
Bryan
August 30th, 2007 at 12:14 pm
I’m wondering what the differences are between the SNX425, SNX427, and SNX429?
August 30th, 2007 at 12:53 pm
Hi Overload,
The only differences on those models is dial colors and straps vs. metal bands. Otherwise they are identical.
It’s my understanding that SNK809 and the other SNK80X watches are bigger, however. I’ve never see those in real life, but Lee Wee Wah lists them at 37mm so it appears they are larger than SNX42X models.
Regards,
Bryan
September 6th, 2007 at 11:44 am
Hi Bryan…I have been thinking about what you said about your impression that European
companies were being “elitist”, and what ga13e said, that the Europeans basically raised
the price, to sell better, and my view that usability is more important.
I think that we all have some merit to what we are saying.
I think that a similar disussion can be made of the automobile. I note that you
have included a picture of your prize auto.
But there is one major difference between cars and watches, at least in the U.S. In
the U.S. we have the “Consumer’s Reports”, which carefully studies the repair records
of autos, and the performance of various auts, and so now, we have a much better picture
of what different brands actually do. For example, the repair record for Mercedes has
been about average, and this has really surprised a lot of people, while people have
noted the Toyota and Hondas have the best repair record. I think if it wasn’t for the
“Consumer’s Report”, people would still be talking about Mercedes, as if they were
the Rolexes, and the Patek Phillips of the car world.
Wouldn’t it be great, if we had a “Consumer’s Reports” for watches? That way, we would
not have to rely of rumors, and advertisements, and know more certainly how good each
watch is, and how important various features hold up, and function.
We would know that if we paid $10,000 for a particular watch, it was actually
worth every dollar. What do you think? I think this though is actually a bit
scary, because there is a possibility that some of my favorite watches could
perform poorly!
There is also the possibility that you and Pete W have enough know-how and status,
to set up a mini-”Consumer’s Report” in this forum, to actually have a functioning
report, of say 5 to 10 watches per type. That would be quite an interesting
development, and some years from now, that report would have formidable clout!
Watch companies would tremble when you guys walked by.
Can you imagine that, Paul
September 7th, 2007 at 11:34 am
Hi Paul,
The Consumer Reports for watches idea is quite interesting.
I recently saw on C-Span an editor for Consumer Reports ask a question to a group of panelists at the Aspen Conference about a topic similar to the one you raise. His question was that since Gen Zers, those now 9 to 18 years old, don’t trust “experts” but rather put their faith in the “wisdom of the masses” on social networking sites — what will happen to publications like Consumer Reports in the future?
It’s a interesting question, because Consumer Reports is apparently losing revenue every year because of competition from free content online, and it’s not beyond the realm of possibilities that it will one day go out of production. I recommend Andrew Keen’s polemic on the subject, called The Cult of the Amateur, to those who want to purse this topic further. For more information, click on the picture below.
It’s interesting to see the poor reviews this good book got by many on Amazon.com. There is your “wisdom of the masses” at work. I couldn’t put it down. Borrowed it from the local library, and it was a thought-provoking read.
Regards,
Bryan
January 3rd, 2008 at 10:53 pm
I’ve recently starting reading the blog and really enjoy your points of view. I wonder if you could recommend (publically or privately) the dealer you used for your SNX427. Reading your review and enjoying your pictures really convinced me: this is the watch for me!
Best regards,
Jim Coyer
January 4th, 2008 at 10:56 pm
Hi Jim,
I purchased my watch from Lee Wee Wah at http://chronograph.com/store/index.asp … Your compliment has inspired me to wear my 427 this weekend. I believe you’ll enjoy the watch if you decide to get one. I sure do.
Regards,
Bryan
January 11th, 2008 at 11:59 pm
I followed suit and ordered from chronograph.com. Very professional. Should arrive in a week. Thanks again.
January 14th, 2008 at 7:26 am
Congrats, Jim. Let us know your impressions when the watch arrives.
Regards,
Bryan
March 2nd, 2008 at 9:03 pm
Hi bryan-
Well, I’ve been a very happy new owner of a black SNX427 with a NATO strap since January 13th. I simply forgot to write in about it until now. From getting all enthusiastic about the Seikos at work, I convinced a colleague to buy one too, and now whenever I see him in the hall, we ask each other “Do you have the time?” and compare how our Seikos are doing. My NATO strap hides the see-through movement, but all in all I love this watch. And find myself wearing it far more than my Omega Seamaster.
March 6th, 2008 at 9:30 pm
Hi Jim,
Thanks for reporting in. I’m wearing my SNX427 right now as I write. Have you noticed that the hour indices on this military-inspired watch are shaped like bullets? You wear it more than your Omega? Considering the difference in the price between the two, that is really saying a lot… I’m pleased to hear that you are, like me, a fan of “the little watch that can”!
Regards,
Bryan
June 15th, 2008 at 10:15 pm
Hello, new to gmt9, great site. I like the watch snx427, saw it on a Singapore site 21Jewels. Is this a Japanese made watch or from one of Seiko’s overseas factories? Curious, but I will get it, saving up! Not a bad price $98 US inc. shipping. I just took the plunge and bought my first Japan market watch thru Seiya Japan (read great reviews, so I did it!) waiting for SBQK081 SS “Explorer 1″ inspired. My watch habit’s resurfaced! I like the Seiko Alpinist I saw on Seiya Japan’s site SARB015 (I have a weakness for the “Explorer !” look) I have 2 Seikos form 1997 they are quartz divers like the 007’s but the crown’s at 3, one w/ black bezel, one Pepsi, both w/ the Seiko blk. rubber strap. Great timepieces, bulletproof. I saw a review of an Orient Star auto. mech., again a “Explorer 1″ look, but got cold feet as some reviews of regular Orients you can buy in USA and even Japan ones that were so so. Seikos seem to be the #1 Japanese timepiece.
Regards, Dr. Robert
June 15th, 2008 at 10:37 pm
Heelo Bryan, like the article. I saw the 427 thru a Singapore site 21jewels 98$US w/ nylon strap, the site you mentioned didn’t have it w/ nylon strap. Have you heard about 21jewels? I read another review of this watch, glowing review and photo showed it w/ a black Hirsch strap, very cool pilot look!
regards, Dr. Robert