The Classic Seiko SKX007 & The Depth of Seiko Divers Watch Design
Seiko SKX007 is the classic Seiko divers watch available today. It has an excellent balance of simple, functional design elements. It makes me cringe when I read about someone who buys one only to immediately send it off for alterations — swapping off its hands, dial, or bezel, or attaching a funky new strap. Ugh. It’s like painting a mustache on the Mona Lisa.
A book published in 2007 by Robert Bergesen called The Depth of Shallow Culture explains how modern product design mirrors movements that take place in the fine arts. Design often moves through four phases — an archaic period, a classical period, a mannerist period, and a baroque period. I decided to apply these ideas to Seiko divers watches designed over the last 40 years, with a renewed appreciation of Seiko SKX007.
Bergesen looks at how sneakers have gone through “life cycles of style types.” I’ll include in this article some of his ideas about basketball shoes, and expand on them to introduce thoughts on Seiko divers watches.
ARCHAIC
The Converse Chuck Taylor All Star (pictured above), released in 1923, was the first sports shoe endorsed by a professional athlete. Although time has shrouded in darkness Taylor’s professional basketball career, there is no doubt his bright ideas helped design an amazing shoe. Bergesen describes the design as archaic, with characteristics that include roughly hewed materials and a thick rubber sole.
Seiko divers watches that are archaic include mid-1960s models 6217 and 6105 (pictured above). Webster’s New World College Dictionary defines archaic as: Belonging to an earlier period; ancient; antiquated; old-fashioned. The dials on these models have thick, square indices, thick date-window boarders, rectangular hands, and two-dot, “fly swatter-shaped” indicators at the tips of their second hands, giving them an antiquated appearance. The rubber straps that came stock on archaic models tended to mimic the look of leather.
CLASSIC
As an example of a classic sneaker design, Bergesen points to the Adidas Superstar, released in 1969. He describes the shoe design as having clear, simple lines, and proportional balance between the stripes, as in the case of the Superstar IIs (shown above).
Seiko divers watch designs that are classics span the time frame from the mid-1970s to the present, and include models 6306, 6309, 7002, and SKX007 (7S26-0020). Webster’s defines classic as: Being a model of its kind; excellent; standard; authoritative; established. Dial indices on Seiko classic diver’s watches are applied and proportional, as are the dots and numbers on the countdown bezels. The lines that indicate minutes on chapter rings are proportional, like the evenly spaced “three stripes” on the Adidas Superstars.
The classics use the Seiko arrow-shaped minute hand, and the screw-down crown is located at 4 o’clock (3:18 o’clock on the SKX007, as LesZ has pointed out). The writing on the dials is balanced and proportional. A final unifying element is the famous black rubber straps many come on. The Z 22 wave straps “scream Seiko diver from across a crowded room,” as watchmaker John Davis once commented.
MANNERIST
An example of the mannerist sneaker is the Nike Air Jordan V (pictured above), original release date 1990. It has mesh elements built into the design, is irregular in some proportions, for instance the lacing, and has a constrained energy, Bergesen writes.
Webster’s defines mannerism as: Distortion of realistic proportions; contorted figures; avoidance of classical balance. Seiko divers watches included in this category are the four grouped above. Regarding the SKX171 (top left image), the way the tab on the bezel at the 20 minute mark extends over the crown distorts the natural balance of the classic divers. As for the others, things like integrated bracelets, crowns at the 9 o’clock position, unusual bezel markings and lug designs, do the same.
BAROQUE
Finally, there is the baroque category. In sneaker design, shoes such as the 2007 model Adidas basketball shoe (shown above) are examples. Bergesen says these shoes have a “massive effect, bulging soles, and a feeling of constant movement.” These kinds of details “keep the eye from focusing upon one constituent shoe element.”
According to the dictionary definition, baroque design includes: Ornamentation and curved rather than straight lines; and are massive; bulging. Seiko divers watches that are baroque include many of the professional diver’s watches like the 600m Automatic, and the 300m and 1000m Quartz models. Even the Seiko Marinemaster 300m Automatic has baroque elements, for instance its massive size compared to a classic divers watch like a Rolex Submariner. For a picture illustrating this point click here. The same is true of the so-called Seiko Sumo, model SBDC001. Citizen makes several baroque divers watches, such as its 1000m Professional Automatic. Like mannerist designs, these often produce strong love/hate reactions from fans.
CONCLUSION
There was speculation on a Japanese watch forum recently about which Seiko 7S-powered divers watch would be most sought after in future, after the models are discontinued. Many commented the baroque design SKX779 “Monster” would be the one, others that mannerist SBDA001 “Samurai” would get the nod.
Is it not possible the classic design SKX007, that goes for under $150 US new, will sell for three or four times, or more, what it sells for now after it is discontinued? That’s what happened to the other classics — the 6306, 6309, and 7002. Granted, the 6306 and 6309 had a better movements and crown designs, but they also retailed for more. Now, a new old stock one can fetch four figures. An NOS 7002 in original box, unworn, goes for a pretty penny in 2007 as well. I think a new in box SKX007 will in the future too.
You simply can’t beat the classics. We are fortunate still to be able to buy this watch new. Mine was made in 2007, and with a production run now stretching into its 11th year, by sheer longevity alone this model is creating a unique place for itself in Seiko divers watch history. It is the truest “classic” Seiko divers watch available brand new today.
CREDITS
Click on the image below to go to Amazon.com and find out more about Bergesen’s book.
Almost all of the photos in today’s story came from Kevin Chan’s Seiko Divers Reference, aside from the cover of Bergesen’s book from Amazon.com, and the pictures of my SKX007 that I took myself.
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August 4th, 2007 at 9:43 am
Hey Brian Anderson:
You have done it again….another great piece about a certain aspect of watch collecting.
It is a pleasure to read such a piece as this….well thought out, well crafted, by a
person very knowledgeable about Seiko watches.
Is it possible that the DESIGN of a watch is THE major factor as far as how much
most watch lovers will love a watch. I mean, the fact that the watch is well
crafted, keeps relatively good time etc are a given. Kind of like a girl friend. We
expect her to be polite, healthy, nice to us etc, but then comes the looks. We want
the one that has the looks that appeal to us. So in the same way, we expect the watch
to work, keep good time, have relatively sturdy construction. But the ultimate
attraction for us, is the looks. I think, as far as I am concerned, no matter how
well the watch is constructed, how accurate it is, how expensive it is, etc, if it
looks “funny”, I am not interested.
You are absolutely right about the SKX007 watch. It has great looks, all the way
from the shiny sides, the crown at 4 o’clock, the flat sturdy bezel, to the watch back.
But I think the face and hands are just not improveable. The extra-large, round hour
markers, the fat stubby hands, the black background. When I compare the face to the
classic Rolex diver, I see that the Rolex hands are absolutely too skinny. The hour
markers are too small. No matter, what Seiko does to the case of the watch, I
hope they never stop using the face.
This all reminds me of the article you did on the Alessi watch by Achille Castigleon.
Once again, that design is beautiful. I would say that, in spite of the fact the
company is selling it for $90, it is hard to find a design better looking than that
watch for a modern look. I guess that is why it is in the New York MOMA.
Once again, thank you for pointing out what appears to be obvious, but it is
obvious only after you have pointed it out to us. Paul Anders
August 4th, 2007 at 3:48 pm
Hi Paul,
I agree that looks are important. It’s often easier to make something complicated than to make it simple. Especially when new technologies and materials allow us to make fantastic creations like those 2007 Adidas Crazy 8 basketball shoes. I like designs that are simple and clean, like Adidas Superstars, and like Seiko SKX007K. I know you do too, so I just took this picture for you to enjoy.
Great comments. They add to the article. One of my colleagues at GMT+9 just e-mailed me to say he enjoyed your remarks, and along with us, I think others will find them of interest too. I appreciate your feedback.
Best regards,
Bryan
August 4th, 2007 at 5:10 pm
Great article. I just bought a SKX009K2, which I think is the same but not made in Japan? I know the models I can get in the USA offically are the SKX173 (black with rubber band) and the SKX175 (blue dial, pepsi bezel, metal band). Still the same watch, correct?
Overload in CO
August 4th, 2007 at 6:16 pm
Hi Overload,
SKX007, SKX009, SKX011, SKX173, SKX175, and SKXA35 are all essentially the same watch, except for differences in coloring, and second hands.
Check out Kevin Chan’s Seiko Divers Reference on the SKX divers series. There is a lot of good information there, volumes of stuff. A lot of what we know about these watches has been pieced together by many people, little by little, over time. The main thing you need to know about all these watches, however, is that they are simply awesome.
Regards,
Bryan
August 6th, 2007 at 5:20 am
Excellent article Bryan that puts the diver designs in a whole new perspective. It will be interesting to see whether your forecast about values for the SKX007 comes true. I wouldn’t have thought so off the top, but your arguments won me over. And where will the Monster wind up? Its huge popularity suggests it has a magical design, but is the magic really intrinsic and lasting or will future generations simply not get what we had in mind?
Best
Jim
August 7th, 2007 at 9:35 am
Hi Jim,
As to the future value of SKX007, I can see a couple of possible scenarios.
In the first scenario, Seiko discontinues production. Think of how Seiko divers watch fans would immediately scramble to get a new in box (NIB) one. That’s what happened when the Casio DW-8400 Mudman unexpectedly went out of production in late 2005. Like the SKX007, it was a pedestrian watch (strong, basic functions, very reasonably priced). Prices for NIB ones doubled overnight.
In the second scenario, Seiko continues to make SKX007 for decades to come, like Converse with the Chuck Taylor All Stars. In that case, prices for the watch NIB continue to rise with inflation (like in the case of Chucks), but never reach the sky.
A word about my lead paragraph and SKX007 modifications. I’m not against all mods. Some are good. But many turn a silk purse into a sow’s ear. I mention that because you did a story about modding awhile back, and just want to clarify I’m not again all mods. But I do like original Seiko designs better than most mods.
Finally, on the Monster. There are a number of quirky Seiko divers watches from the past, particularly quartz, especially ones from the late-’70s and early-’80s, and kinetic ones from the ’90s, for instance some of the Pipin Ferraras models that surface from time to time. Perhaps we’ll view the Monster like one of those — a curiosity. On the other hand, the sheer number of Monsters produced and their relatively long production run might put them in a new category. Perhaps Monsters will be made for years, even decades, to come. I sort of doubt it, but, who knows?
Lots of speculation there. But one this is certain, if either SKX007 or SKX779 are discontinued, it will cause quite a stir among Seiko diver watch fans, and a feeding frenzy of buying. That would be fun to see.
Regards,
Bryan
August 7th, 2007 at 10:25 am
many thanks for a great article!
August 7th, 2007 at 1:18 pm
Thanks Kubson! I just took this picture for you.
Regards,
Bryan
August 8th, 2007 at 7:56 am
Seiko probably paid the highest compliment when they used this model for their high accuracy quartz perpetual calendar PROSPEX SBCM023.
August 9th, 2007 at 9:51 am
Good point Konrad, and the 6458 caliber, and 7C43 caliber, Seiko Professional 200m Quartz divers watches from the 1980s also shared the classic design style of my SKX007 (pictured again, below).
Regards,
Bryan
August 9th, 2007 at 11:04 pm
Nice article Bryan. I’m a fan of the classic SKX divers too.
Here’s my SKX011J.
August 10th, 2007 at 8:47 pm
Hi Yeoman,
Thank you for your comments. By the way, I read your blog every day. You made a great point here when you wrote: The orange chapter ring on the 011 is seen as part of the dial and hence makes it look bigger compared to the A55. It takes a keen eye to see that kind of detail. Fascinating.
Like you, SKX007K was my first Seiko automatic. I had many Seiko quartz watches before I bought my first SKX007, but a man’s first Seiko automatic divers watch seems to make the deepest impression. For instance, Shawn Taylor often talks about his first Seiko auto diver, a 6309 model. For others, it’s a 6105 that was their first. And for still others, it was a 7002. For Sir Les Zetlein, it was his SKX171. Whichever it was, that one holds a special place. Like you, for me, it’s SKX007.
Maybe 6309s, 7002s — and certainly Grand Seikos — are nicer than SKX007. But you know what? I should say this quietly . . . SKX007 is my favorite Seiko watch …. Sort of in the same way that a pair of $175 Nike Air Jordans XX2s may be “nicer” than a pair of $40 black high-top Converse Chuck Taylor All Stars, but guess which ones I prefer? . . .
OK, the Jordans ARE sweet . . .
Regards,
Bryan
September 9th, 2008 at 8:06 pm
[…] I’d never owned a Seiko chronograph with the 7T62 quartz movement before buying Seiko SNAA45P1. An interesting feature is the way the 1/5 second chronograph hand moves. It moves just like the second hand on an Seiko SKX007 powered by the 5-beat 7S26 automatic movement. […]
December 5th, 2008 at 6:26 am
hello,,everybody
sorry for my english my native tongue is french.
i want to buy SKX007,but my question is simple,
where is the difference betwen 007j and 007k
and can you advise me about this watch
thankss
December 6th, 2008 at 8:50 am
Hi Pinou,
There is lots of debate on this, but simply put, SKX007K is “made in Singapore,” while SKX007J is “made in Japan”
I’ve owned both the “K” and “J” version. They are identical, in my opinion, aside from the words “21 Jewels” and “Made in Japan” on the dial of the “J” version.
I recommend you look at the two versions and decide which dial you prefer, the cleaner “K” version with less text, or the more verbose “J” version with the extra words.
Regards,
Bryan